By this time, most of the body had been glued together and the sanding was getting to a point where i was just getting the joins as flush as possible. Here I moved onto getting the front wheel hubs stuck on and bolted in for strength. I thought that epoxy would be enough to hold the hub in but since Renshape was such as heavy material and the join was such a small area, my dad suggested a bolt to hold it in would be a good fail safe. This was a bit daunting as no one wants to make changes to the final model at the last second. We glued the hubs on and then chose an area where people couldn’t see bolt sticking through which would also provide the most support. Using the cordless drill with one of us holding down the model as the other drilled we began. The hole went through both the wheel hub and the body. We then filled this hole with a bit of epoxy resin and then dropped a bolt in there to hold the body together. This hole was later to bogged over and sanded clean.
The next stage involved putting together the rear wheel hubs of the model. Due to time constraints and machine failures in the final weeks I had to get a rather large part of the inner hub 3D printed in Z-Corp Powder Print. This cost quite a bit ($240) but saved me crucial time as it meant the other half could be CNC’d with on a 3 axis machine saving me time. Like the other Z- Corp part, this was brushed in West Systems 105 Resin and Fast Hardener and put in front of a heater to dry up. This was then glued to the other half of the wheel hub and the join cleaned up with a bit of bog and spot putty. The left Wheel hub was a bit of a nightmare. After not having time to finish to complete it on the 4 Axis machine, it had to be sliced up to be put onto a 3 Axis machine. This machine then broke down for 5 working days so the parts that made up this part were the last to come out, a mere week before the project was due. As you can see by the pictures a lot of sanding and bog was put on and this part took quite a while before it began looking remotely like its opposite side.
Once the rear wheel hubs had been sanded down and the joins tested against the body to make sure they were flush, they were attached to the body. We used the same procedure as the front hubs by first gluing into place with 5 minute epoxy then drilling a bolt through for strength. These were tough to line up as they had to be done by eye.
After the final bolts were in, bog put on to cover the holes, we did a once over on the model to make sure it was all in good shape. A good clean with methylated spirits and an air gun brought up any holes in the joins or the bog. These were then sanded back or had spot putty or bog added depending on the size. These were the crucial last hours getting the model prepped for paint. I did a once over with 240 grit paper and a final wipedown with methylated spirits as well as a pressured air gun and the model was ready to be sent to to paint.