Tag Archives: Hi-Gloss Bodyworks

MODEL MAKING PROCESS- PRIME AND PAINT ( PART 4)

Since the Model was back from paint, the final bits to go on where the 3D printed parts. These parts as shown by a previous post ( scroll down) were cleaned and sanded slightly to prepare the surface for priming. These parts while small needed a lot of sanding to get the surface smooth for painting.  I used 240 grit sand paper here and had to be extremely careful as the parts were quite small and fragile. With the Objet Printed parts ( yellowy plastic) you can actually paint straight onto these parts however applying a layer of primer is important to get a smooth even surface as primer just helps to fill up any inconsistencies you may not see or feel. 

All the smaller parts you see here are for the headlights and taillights of the model. The larger solid parts are the Z-Corp Powder prints and these have been soaked in Epoxy Resin for Strength and sanded down ready for priming. Image

You may not be able to see it from the picture but all the parts above still don’t have extremely smooth surfaces. This is because some of them were so small and fragile that I didn’t want to risk breaking a printed piece since I didn’t have any replacements. After this photo was taken I did however sand them down a little further and then the Acrylic Primer Surfacer was applied. This Acrylic Primer Surfacer was made for use on plastics meaning it will adhere to the surface better than standard Primer Putty. The Primer Putty is then applied over the Surfacer to give the pieces that extra layer to hide any surface roughness. Once the Primer Putty is applied twice the pieces were given a light sanding back and then the chosen paint applied . I glued the pieces down to a wooden box and just sprayed them outside in my garden. I coated them with at least three layers of Automotive Acrylic Paint ( Purchased at Autobarn) and then a coat of the Acrylic Clear Gloss to give the pieces a bit of a shine. The pieces were then ready to be glued onto the model.

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MODEL MAKING PROCESS- PRIME AND PAINT ( PART 3)

The day after I saw the first coat of paint being applied ( Strato Grey) the final body colour was put on just the next day and the model was ready to pick up within 36 hours. The main body paint I chose was a Toyota Pearl White. This colour contrasted well with the dark grey windows and was a colour that reflected luxury and wealth and looked good in almost any light. Through some research over the last couple of days, I had narrowed the colour choices down to a range of metallic colours such as beige gold and bronze and also a number of different shades of white. This Pearl White wasn’t something that i was able to render too well in KeyShot ( CAD program for rendering) but after seeing a new Toyota 86 on the road in pearl white I knew that was a colour that would work really well. As mentioned in the previous posts, using Adams manufacturer swatches I was able to choose out the exact Pearl White that I wanted. Pearl White is a tougher paint than most to apply because it is applied in 3 layers. These are the base colour ( very light off beige white) then the Pearl Sparkle ( in White) then the clear coat. Three layers means three layers of paint to be applied, three times the drying time making it quite a tough job to complete properly. Thankfully Adam was experienced in this area and the paint job came out really nice, really contrasting the windows well.
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The final stage of the process was to add on the 3D printed parts for the small details such as the suspension arms and head/taillights and the model was ready for presentation.   

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Model Making Process- Prime and Paint ( Part 2)

The next day I popped back to Hi-Gloss Bodyworks to see how Adam was doing with my model. He had finished the primer layers then night before, let it dry and then applied a coat of the window paint, “Strato Grey”. This paint looked really nice, had a dark metallic grey colour which really worked well against the Pearl White swatch. The model, being made from Renshape ( A chemical Wood) was unable to baked due to it being part wood. This meant that drying times took a bit longer than expected. Luckily though the Strato Grey was a easy paint to apply compared to the later coat which was in Pearl White ( 3 Individual Layers of paint) . The model began to really look like it was coming to completion here and I was really happy with the progress. The only issue I saw was a join that hadn’t been quite covered up by the primer and had still come through in the paint near, part of the front recessed area for the headlight. This goes to show how hard it is to smooth out joins before primer, no matter how much bog or putty you put to fill up the gap. Luckily this join was going to be hidden by a 3D printed headlight so it was not a big issue.

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The next step was masking off the grey paint to ready the model for putting on the main body colour, Pearl White. Watching Adam apply the blue masking tape you could see that there was a real art in masking off the curves to the exact radius’s and angles that you had on your model.  He completed the roof section first and then moved onto the side windows.
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The windows were the tougher bit to mask off with sections that were obscured by other parts of the wheel hub making them hard to mask accurately. Watching Adam apply the tape though, none of these sections seemed to bother him in the slightest. Within half an hour the model was masked up and the masking tape was being applied readying it for Pearl White paint.

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Model Making Process- Prime and Paint ( Part 1)

The first couple of photos were taken just before loading the model into the car to be taken to the painter. The model was finally all put together and ready for paint. The painter that I had chosen was one which did a lot of automotive restoration jobs. I dropped him an email about two weeks before i was expecting to finish the model with screenshots from my CAD files and he was able to give me a rough quote on how long it would take allowing me to work that into my schedule.  I found Adam’s shop ” Hi Gloss Bodyworks” through the internet, browsing places that did custom paint jobs and his came up with some recommendations from a forum. Not new to student work Adam was really understanding about my time lines and enthusiastic about what I had planned for him to do.

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Located out in Knoxfield, we arrived at his Body shop and took the model out and put it on a tray. Being a proper automotive body show he used two pack paint which is illegal to spray without a fully vented spray booth in Australia. Two Pack is better than Acrylic paint to use on models as you are able to get a thicker coat than acrylic and are able to layer the paint with ease. We went to the paint room and I was able to pick out a paint choice from his large collection of swatches that were all sorted by Automotive Manufacturer which was really helpful as the colour for the body that I wanted to match was a pearl white that I had recently seen on a Toyota 86. The window colour was an older Mitsubishi Gun Metal Grey which was easy to get from swatches too. After a couple of minutes choosing colours and comparing them to existing swatches that I had, I decided on a Pearl white( 1 of many shades) and he was ready to prime the model.

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We then moved the model into the paint room, placing it on a barrel with a stand so that he could get primer onto the top and bottom of the model even though people wont see the bottom. Adam informed me that some of the really tight areas would be very hard to get into as when you apply primer you have to do it in a smooth slow fashion. This I assume meant you couldn’t stay in one are to fill it up as this would apply too much primer to one area leaving an uneven coat. He did what he could and it came out really well, this was the first time I could see the reflections of light on my model similar to the ones that I had in CAD.

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After the first coat of primer was done I walked in to see the model. I was both shocked and surprised at how it came out. Surprised because finally i could see the models reflections and shocked because of all the part lines that stood out! This was really worrying as every little area that had been joined together with glue has a part line showing even though we sanded it down and filled it up with bog and spot putty. Luckily Adam was planning to apply more than 1 layer of primer and by the 3rd the part lines had been mostly covered up. Over the next day, Adam sanded back my the primer and rubbed down the model getting it looking as smooth as possible on the sides. He even added some auto bog on one of the part lines that he couldn’t smooth out and then sanded it back further.

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